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News and Events ~ April 2013

 

The Crachesi Come to America

Italian immigration grew tenfold in the 1880s over previous decades. In 1880 about twenty thousand Italians lived in New York City but their numbers would increase more than twelve times by 1900. While Italian immigration was dispersed throughout the United States large numbers of Southern Italians arriving in New York City from the regions of Basilicata, Calabria, and Sicily settled on the Lower East Side. Included in this were small groups (41 people from 1880-1890 and 380 people between 1891-1900) from Craco.

Conditions in New York City in the 1880s were horrible for them. Forced to live in a slum area known as "Mulberry Bend," the Italians arriving there were following earlier immigrants from Ireland and Germany. They lived in dark, airless, and unsanitary tenements.

Tenement buildings were dangerous firetraps, as well as a breeding place for rodents and diseases. They did not have easy access to water, especially if they lived on the upper level. Water had to be drawn from the fire hydrant in the street and carted upstairs.

Lacking English, marked by their own dialects, and often not able to write, Italians were reliant on "middle men" (padrones) who placed men for work but extracted fees and commissions.

Italian immigrants tended to do whatever was needed to support themselves, accepting jobs that other Americans didn't want to do. To maintain their families they worked 12 hours a day and often took in boarders to cover expenses.

With their agrarian experience Southern Italians were able to get the maximum from everything extracting from dumps, trash in the streets, and castoffs of others to create riches that allowed him to return home or bring his family over to join him.

Jacob Riis, in his 1890 book, "How The Other Half Lives" documented the lives immigrants of the era faced and made an observation important to Cracotans.

Referring to Italians being resourceful he may have identified the roots of how the paper stock business became important to many from Craco.

He says, "The discovery was made...there is money in New York’s ashbarrel,...has become the exclusive preserve of the Italian immigrant. ...the city hired gangs of men...The men were paid a dollar and a half a day, kept what they found…" He goes on to say the arrangement changed suggesting that "junk picking" became very profitable, "Today Italians contract for the work, paying large sums to be permitted to do it...The effect ...giving him exclusive control of the one industry..."

Many Italians were lured by stories told in Europe about plentiful work and big wages, in America but could not find steady work and returned to Italy discouraged and with empty pockets.

Early Italian immigrants were not welcomed in America; they would be verbally abused by name calling such as "wop," "guinea," and "dago."

In the face of such hostility, Italian immigrants, disregarded differences, and preferences for local townspeople (paesani) drew together, mingling language, worship, and traditions, creating a sense of security among themselves. By establishing their own communities where they could speak their own language, eat their own foods, practice their customs and religion as if back in their homeland numerous "Little Italy" neighborhoods developed.

Over the 1880s immigrants’ gains set the stage for the even larger number of arrivals. during the next decade. For the Crachesi, the initial group of immigrants who arrived brought with them skills (barbers, tailors) that aided in their assimilation and provided the pathway for others to follow in the next decade.


Calanchi of Basilicata

 APT Basilicata, the regional tourist organization, published a booklet for autotouring the "calanchi" of the region. The booklet cover features a high altitude photograph of Craco and the surrounding countryside.

Calanchi, are a unique feature in the hilly area of the Province that includes Craco. They are similar to areas in the US southwest known as "badlands."

The tour originates in Tursi and goes through the countryside to Valsinni, Senise, Sant’ Arcangelo, Aliano, Stigliano, Craco and ends in Ferrandina.

The booklet highlights interesting sites along the route and features to visit in each town. These include historic buildings, museums, and the Monte Cotugno Dam (the largest in Europe). The booklet also points out specialties that are available in the area such as Ferrandina’s olive oil, oranges from Tursi, Colobraro’s excellent goat’s milk pecorino cheese that has the intense flavor of the countryside, and the famous "cruschi" peppers of Senise.


The Craco Immigrant's Trip

The first Crachesi immigrants faced considerable challenges, but established the pathway and foundation for more than 1500 others that followed in the next 40 years.

Understanding both the difficulty they faced and the desperation that drove them to leave may not be fully possible to us today. Thinking about how easily we travel and how the world has changed prevents us from grasping the impact of immigration on their lives.

In going to America they faced daily challenges of not knowing the language, being unable to read any signs, dealing with unusual food, customs, and religion and realizing they were not welcomed by most of the populace.

The moment they left Craco their world changed.

Prof. D’Angella, the author of the history of the town of Craco, says their travel to Naples was 8 to 10 days by horse to cover the distance of about 160 miles. Some made the trip by using the "chooch" or donkey probably pulling a cart. Later immigrants would have had the choice of using the train reducing the travel time and risks.

The route they traveled was from Craco towards Pisticci Scalo, then along the Cavone River Valley until they connected with the Via Appia through Potenza, Salerno, and into Naples. This was a hard and dangerous trip due to what were described as "gypsies" and brigands by Prof. D’Angella. He adds, "Many people would have written a will before embarking on the trip."

Arriving in Naples added to their dislocation by introducing the villagers to the more modern aspects of their world. For most, this trip was the first experience of leaving the area surrounding Craco. Bear in mind, there was a Cracotan proverb that described something far away as being "from here to Pisticci..." which is only a distance of 11 miles.

Arriving in Naples was an eye opener. There may have been more people living in one Naples apartment block than in all of Craco! Naples in this era was the largest city in Italy. Such a large bustling city framed by an active volcano had to create an overwhelming impression.

Then the emigrants from Craco had to deal with new challenges. Needing to secure passage on a ship, comply with documentation to exit Italy, and meet US regulations to permit boarding the ships they had to rely on agents.

Fares for steerage class passengers, in the 1880s were about $20, but with increasing competition among shipping lines, the price would drop in half by the 1890s.

Most likely, their possessions were wrapped as bundles and included food such as dried sausage or cheese. Once they boarded the ship they entered a totally alien place.

The ocean voyage was rarely smooth and averaged about two weeks. The immigrants were left to their own devices to pass the time and face worries about the uncertainty of their fates. Storms and rough seas added to the discomfort along with being jammed into the bottom of the ship with no privacy. Men and women were separated into different sleeping quarters and met in the above deck areas where they went to escape the narrow bunks and dank atmosphere in their steerage area.

We have no information about the 1880s Cracotan immigrants’ experience but a narrative written by Domenic Colabella about his voyage to America gives a good idea of this portion of the trip. He left Craco when he was 14 years old in 1905 and says,

"… I left Craco … for Napoli. I traveled alone by slow boat … it took 29 days to New York. ... On the boat all the men were bunked in large rooms naturally, we were treated like cattle in a box railroad car. The food was like what they serve in prisons. But we were a gay young bunch, looking forward to America and nothing bothered us anymore."

Upon entering New York Harbor they were greeted by the City’s skyline and after 1886 the Statue of Liberty. Once docked they transferred to smaller boats to go to the immigration station.

It was here immigrants faced the greatest challenge hoping not to be rejected. A contemporary description of the entry process at Castle Garden provides insight:

Before they are allowed in the main part of the building the immigrants have to pass in single file before the officials, who register their names, nationality, age, occupation, starting point and destination, and also ask whether they have any money or not. In case they are without funds or means of earning a living, they are detained at the Garden for a reasonable length of time. If no one appears to care for them they are eventually sent back across the sea.

After the immigrants have been registered they are allowed to do as they please. Those who have through railroad tickets with which to go to the interior of the country are sorted out by the agents of the different railroad lines, and are soon started on their way.

Others, who decide to stay in New York for a time to look for work or wait for lagging friends, are left to the not altogether tender mercies of the boarding house "runners," who are admitted to the floor of the garden after the registration has been finished. At this period of the proceedings the spectacle to onlooker is an interesting one.

The queer costumes, many of them brightly colored, and the faces, made doubly expressive by the hopes and fears of their owners, give this crowd an aspect of almost feverish gayety. As soon as the first excitement of arrival is over, those who for any reason find it necessary to remain at the Garden gather in groups about the kettle topped stoves and discuss the incidents of the voyage or prospects for the future. Sometimes they camp in the Garden for days before starting out, sitting by day on their bags and bundles and sleeping on the hard benches at night.

From there they entered a new life. The first group of Cracotans would experience major changes in New York City that allowed the 380 others from the town who followed during the decade after 1890 to find a more hospitable home.


Madonna di Viggiano in Toronto, Canada

The Madonna di Viggiano, a widely venerated relic in Basilicata will be coming to North America in June.

LA MADONNA DI VIGGIANOEach Spring, the people of Viggianno move the statue of this version of the "Black Madonna" from the town of Viggiano to a hilltop and then back down again in the Fall, bringing many visitors. Scenes of the 2012 procession can be seen on YouTube.

Initial plans for the North American visit have the statue arriving in Toronto, Canada. Events will be held from June 22 to July 2 in the Church of the Immaculate Conception. On Sunday June 23, a special Mass will be held followed by a procession and grand feast.

There are over 90,000 people of Lucania origin in Southern Ontario. This is the first visit of the statue to Canada and the idea is to create an annual event, and perhaps a permanent statue in Woodbridge.



Click here to view A Year in Craco.  Events in Craco for every month are listed.  Thank you to Joe Rinaldi in Canada for his contribution to this page.


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